All Chef Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
An Shocking Honour
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
The Namesake Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Surpassing the Stars
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.
The Creed of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Path of Perseverance
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Culture
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.